Fond Memories Wiped Out

by lute wa lutengano

I found myself in Kariakoo area in Dar es Salaam a week or so ago. It is a place which evokes some fond memories in me. Sometimes in the early 70s I found myself living in the area. My residence was House no.21 Likoma Street.

Then I had just completed my secondary education and was doing what we called a ‘tempo’ or rather I was temporarily employed by the then National Housing Corporation as a Cashier.

But that is not what evokes the fond memories. The culprit is music. I was attracted to music of the time. The then youth bands included the Safari Trippers, Afro Sabini, The Tonics and the like. This was over and above the mainstream bands which included Dar Jazz, NUTA Jazz, Kilwa Jazz, and the Jamhuri, Atomic, Moro groups and many others.

Naturally I went for the youth bands. As I had mastered the guitar it was very easy for me to join one of the groups. In this case it was The Trippers, led by one David Gordon, who worked with the then National Bank of Commerce.

We had our gigs at the then Forodhani Hotel. This was cool, if I can use the teenage term. I was a teetotaler by then and was too young for the girls. Those who pursued me fell in the hands of my uncle, who I was staying with in Kariakoo.

It was only natural for him to love my stay with him. Even when I was selected for High School, which I did not like, the uncle was my natural supporter. It took the threats of my late father, which included a physical

confrontation with my uncle after traveling almost a thousand kilometers from Njombe, for me to forcefully join high school.

But those times were quite enjoyable. Evening gigs at Forodhani Hotel, afternoon sessions, for teenagers, at the then Splendid Hotel. The hotel was located where the TTCL head office along Samora Machel Avenue now stands. And other gigs were at the then Princess Hotel, adjacent to the Mnazi Mmoja gardens and the Police Officers Mess in Oysterbay.

No wonder fond memories overwhelmed me when I found myself in Kariakoo. I decided to visit my Likoma Street home. What a disappointment. It was nowhere. High-rise buildings were everywhere. Built haphazardly and precariously dangerous, most of these ugly buildings belong to Tanzanians of Arabic or Asian origin.

I was told that the indigenous Tanzanians have been expelled, through monetary enticements, to the bushes of Pugu and Gezaulole. My Likoma street house was nowhere. In its place was some hideous six-floored structure with grills everywhere including on its balconies. It resembled a third rate prison.

For someone from Arusha, this was shocking. Unlike Dar es Salaam, in Arusha, most of the new buildings coming up in the centre of town belong to the indigenous Tanzanians. And they are of slightly better quality than the ones in Kariakoo. One has just to visit the areas around the central Arusha mosque to appreciate this fact.

Horrified, I extricated myself from the Kariakoo mass of humidified people and structures and boarded the next flight back to Arusha. Why I wondered have they ruthlessly wiped out my fond memories?

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Michuzi Blog

Tanzanian blog operating since 2005, covering International news and Local News, including Politics, Fashion, Social Scenes, Interviews, Movies, Events, personalities and anything positive happening worldwide. Written in Swahili and English targeting both Swahili and English readers.

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  1. Pole sana brother Lute! I had the same experience two years ago when I tried to find my way thru' the same city I lived for more than 20 years - it's wiped off! With those tall ugly buildings at Kariakoo no body cares about 'wananchi', no parking, rest rooms, or even gardens. Where are the environmentalists in Tanzania?! Or do we even have architectures?!

    I am told that next year (January)our EA "Federation" dream is going to be passed, are we ready for all the 'nyang'aus' and their friends? or we are going to let their 'petty' cash robe our LAND and PRIDE?!! VIONGOZI MKO WAPI - AMKA!!

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  2. you sound like a dangerous racist

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  3. Lute, I was just in Kariakoo myself. Nilipotea! Siyo ile tuliyojua. Na sasa badala ya waHindi na waArabu kuna waChina kibao! Kariakoo will soon be a mix of 'ugly' high rises. Ile uniique quality ya enzi zile haipo tena.

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  4. Yes the same with Upanga. I grew up in Upanga Mindu St. I was shocked to see these tall buildings emerging there. Houses are blocked from the sky view. Upanga was then lots of fun,pure air, happiness, laughter and not forgetting our Seaview Disco. Now everything is topsy turvy. It does not mean I am against development but we need to weigh out the pros and cons . Also one has to really access these tall buildings if they stand strong.

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  5. Bro Lutenganos,
    I was was born in Mkunguni street, Kariakoo in 1950's. I grew up in Kariakoo and started working in the 70's in Dar. What I would like to tell you is that Kariakoo has always been a racially mixed area. We have always had "Asians" and what you call "Arabs" (most of whom have one or two indigenous grandparents). The Ghesani, Hirizi, al-Hadi and Ismat families were families known by all real Kariakooan in 40's, 50's, 60's, 70's and 80's. So I assume that your disappointment is that in Kariakoo Muslims bought the houses from other Mulims unlike in Arusha where Christians from Kilimanjaro bought houses from Muslim Waswahilis. Pole bro

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  6. Azania BitozNovember 13, 2009

    Michu,

    Thank you for posting Lute's article. As usual hate mongers kama kawaida yao lazima wachonge na kujaribu kuitumia dini as a vehicle to spread hatred from their sick and warped porous minds
    Keep up the good work brother and lets not let feeble minds be a deterent in spreading the libeneke
    "A luta continua" for real

    Azania Bitoz

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